21 May 2008
09 May 2008
Koh Samui, Thailand
A much needed and appreciated break. The last time I took leave was Nov last year when I went home for Thanksgiving. This time, instead of going to
My flight out of
Dennis was meeting his fiancée-to-be in for a week-long vacation in
My flight to
The Lebua at
The next morning we hit the road to see
Then we found another tuk-tuk driver who offered to show us the city for a reasonable fee. I think it was about US $12. We saw several Buddha temples and a few tailor/jewelry shops that he insisted we visit. Note: tuk-tuk drivers get coupons for free gas when they take you to certain establishments.
Later we went to a posh bar at the top of Lebua at
KOH SAMUI DAY 1
Then it was time to start our trek to Koh Samui, which is an island in the
Of note was some of the Buddhist ornaments. Like Julie & I who both wear crosses depicting our Christian beliefs, Buddhists wear things too. Some of them are quite large and encased in clear plastic like little terrariums. Finally we asked someone who said they were monks and/or temples and meant to bring good luck.
We arrived at Bill Resort (I know, but it’s Bill Resort not Bill’s Resort) and we amazed by our beachfront bungalow. The edge of our deck was literally only a few yards from the surf. The pool & restaurant was just around the corner. Except for a steep walk from/to the reception area, it was perfect. We immediately broke into the mini-bar and I had the Singhas while Julie enjoyed the Thai red wine which was chilled and sweet like Sangria.
KOH SAMUI DAY 2
We had breakfast at the resort restaurant, served by a waitress we nicknamed Button because we agreed she was “as cute as a button.” Then after relaxing a while on our deck watching the waves and beach traffic, we adventured into town. Almost dehydrated from the 100 ft. walk, we stopped at the first available patio bar for some liquid refreshment—Singha. We were joined by Maria the cat as we watched young men spar in the open-air Muay Thai boxing ring across the street. We later made out way down the street, patronizing each patio bar along the way, and were adopted by a beach dog we named Clyde who looked remarkably like Julie’s dog Sampson and who followed us the rest of the day.
At one bar we decided to deviate from Singha and ordered Bloody Marys. They were horrible. We told the server (Russian, I think) so and he admitted he didn’t know how to make them but he would go ask his friend. He immediately hopped on the back of a scooter and disappeared. Some time later he returned and apologized because he couldn’t find
KOH SAMUI DAY 3
The third day was our jungle safari. We were picked up at he hotel and first went to see Grandfather and Grandmother rocks, which are well-known natural rock formations that look remarkably like male & female genitalia. Then we went to an animal park where Julie held a baby otter and several birds, I bottle-fed two tiger cubs, we saw an elephant show, and we went for a ride on an elephant. Our next stop was a beautiful waterfall and quick swim. Then to the top of a mountain where we had a magnificent view of the island, and lunch at a restaurant with an equally impressive view. Lastly, we went to see the Giant Buddha, which was on the other side of the island. We were traveling in the back of a small pickup with other tourists, including two young women who we think were French, and three guys who turned out to be the first Emirates I’ve ever met despite my many trips through
KOH SAMUI DAY 4
This was the relaxing day. We went to Tamarind Springs Spa for five hours of blissful relaxation. First one and a half hours by ourselves in a steam room built into the rocks and a cool water pool right next to it. Then a two and a half hour massage in a comfortable pavilion surrounded by jungle. We could hear rainfall and jungle birds while skillful masseuses treated us to a traditional Thai massage.
That night we went to Rick’s Resort for a delightful dinner of tempura shrimp and prawns in white wine sauce with a Chilean Corinto Merlot. There was a cabaret show with transvestites lip-synching and dancing to show tunes. Later we retreated to our bungalow where we relaxed on the deck and I enjoyed a Nicaraguan Vigilante cigar while we watched fireworks light up the shrimp boats.
KOH SAMUI DAY 5
We laid on the beach, slept, ate, relaxed.
KOH SAMUI DAY 6
Fishing/snorkeling tour. The van picked us up and took us to the pier where we boarded our boat. We went out near some small islands nearby and fished with hand lines over the side of the boat. I caught a small grouper. Later Julie had a bite. She said “It feels big!” and was having trouble bringing it in so I reached over to help her, thinking she must be hung up on a rock. Nope, it was a big one! Together we pulled it in and then let the deck hands take over to net it (with a laundry basket) and bring it aboard. Everyone cheered when it was in the boat and took pics. I wish I could say what kind it was but I’ve never seen anything like it and couldn’t understand what the Thai deck hand said, but it was shaped like a sunfish only larger. It was probably 15 inches long, about 10 inched tall, and I guess it weighed 12 lbs.
After fishing in the morning, we went to a small island where the crew prepared our catch and we had a picnic. Julie’s fish fed not only the other tourists on our boat (three from
Then we went to another area where there were some coral reefs and got out of the boat to snorkel. It was beautiful. There were hundreds of fish who weren’t shy. At times we’d be surrounded by these little fish that would swim right up to us and even brush against us.
We were supposed to fly back to
KOH SAMUI DAY 7
This time we took another fishing tour. A bigger boat, with fishing poles, standing room, and Singha beer. We fished all morning then broke for onboard lunch when the crew cooked some of our catch. The captain asked if we wanted to snorkel in the afternoon or keep fishing. Us tourists (Julie & me; a couple from
That night we went to a highly rated restaurant called the Cliff. We had a delicious dinner, appetizers, soup, wine, entrée, desert, after-dinner drinks all for under US $200.
KOH SAMUI DAY 8
Checked out of the resort and had time for a little shopping before our flight. We bought some souvenirs and I bought a ring for Julie. The airport in Koh Samui was surprisingly beautiful, like you might expect an island paradise airport should be. Flight to
Up early and to the airport. A quick kiss goodbye and then Julie made a mad dash to her gate while I checked in for my flight. Julie’s flight included a short layover in
I finally landed in
Found a cheap hotel for the night where apparently the clientele was mostly Pakistani workers. Went to the dingy hotel bar for a nightcap and saw an Arab-looking woman get irate at something a man said to her, expecting to see an instant beheading but someone rushed the guy out before that could happen. Went to bed, woke up the next morning for my flight back to
Arrived in
Click here for our pics (over 400 of them). Enjoy!
Out.
Julie added her observations to mine:
Flight Day: My flights:
I get to airport, no Rick, no English, 1:00 AM. I am tired and anxious and have -0- way of communicating with anyone. Found cab-1 hour to hotel. Get there and you had not checked in. I had no idea where you were. No messages either.
Buddhist shrines: Very ornate architecture, like nothing else in the city. The actual Buddhas were made out of gold...more specifically gold flakes. We later learned gold flakes were placed on the Buddhas by monks for good fortune. Buddhist monks appear to be quiet, peaceful, bald, and mostly wear orange togas (sarongs?)
Protocol for the temple: take shoes off, it's ok to take pics inside. Locals burn incense with orchids and dedicate a prayer. People can enter the temple to pray at all hours. We were impressed with this fact. Some people were writing prayers on paper and burning them as an offering to Buddha. There were colorful ribbons and leis, incense and money boxes for donations everywhere at the foot of Buddha. No explanations anywhere in English so we had to assume many traditions.
Jewelry factory: they were actually grinding the stones and carving them into jewelry right in front of us. We heard that the jewelry factories were owned by the govt.
Koh Samui:
Day 2: You could also describe the terrarium as a golden snow globe. Mention that Buddha is in the terrarium, covered in gold, and he brings luck, safety and goodness to those who wear him. Many wore pimped Buddhas.
On the train, we stopped every 1/2 hour or so to pick up other passengers, similar to riding on DART. Vendors would hop on, trying to sell us beer, souvenirs, etc. While on the train, after finally leaving
Ferry: Found out beer is only 20 baht, or less than $1, so this stretch of the trip was tolerable. Terrain started looking more like
Harley riders greeted us when we docked. Many ex-pats going out for a ride.
Bill Resort: We did a great job being very specific with our room request. We mentioned it was out honeymoon and got the royal treatment when we entered our beachfront, bungalow room. The white linen sheets were covered in orchid petals gently placed in the shape of a heart. They also had a fruit basket ornately covered in banana leaves and a wine basket with their local Thai wine. The help was incredibly friendly and accommodating. The trek from our room to the lobby was quite daunting with a hill that would wear out even the most fit hikers. You really had to WANT to get to the lobby if you needed anything. You couldn't just call in for room service, either. The room had no phone! The only English TV channel was Bloomberg. Needless to say there wasn't much TV watching being done. Both of us read. (Yes, Rick even read People magazine with me!) The weather was bad when we arrived so we adapted! We pulled out the IPOD docking station, hung out on the patio, drank, danced, smoked, told lies an stayed up past our bedtime! Near our bungalow, beachfront bars were lined up all down the coastline, so it was no wonder that when tourists walked by they thought we were a bar. We could have sold Singhas and paid for our trip!
Day 3: In town. The side street we stumbled across was the main drag to the cities bars, stores, etc. We couldn't have planned it any better if we tried! It looked like something you might see out of
After touring about 6 establishments, we ventured down a side street that looked slightly different than the main drag. We stopped at one other unique bar: Hot Lips. The reason...we were curious. Their logo was stolen right off of Harley Davidson. It must be cool!
A side note: Local girlie-girls are rampant in
Also, you're never really sure whether you're talking to a girl or a boy. Transvestites flourish down here, too. We kept looking for Adams Apples on these two. The he-males/women/men are beautiful and laid back...a perfect combination for anyone looking for 'love'... After we hung out with these 2 for a while, we started to realize that we had stumbled onto a side street that could be best described as the "Zona Rosa"...or red light district. Gays/loose women and alcohol abounded. It was a feast for the eyes! The spirit of the street reminded me of
Day 4 Elephant Tour: Story behind Grandfather/Grandmother Rock:
First of all...there is DEEP respect for the elderly in
The rock formations are as close to the real thing as you will ever see. You may even blush or feel a little uneasy staring too long at the rocks.
On the elephant tour, we were lucky enough to also see a monkey act, elephant act and a crocodile act. The crocodile act was the most unique...they hypnotized the crocs and the trainers did such daring stunts as inserting their entire arms and their own heads into the crocs' mouths. They even kissed them on the lips. Trainers were young, 20 yr olds...very daring!
This day was a personal challenge for me on many levels. I was still recovering from a previous surgery I had 2 weeks earlier. I had not regained my sense of core balance. This is only important because I am scared of heights, and we were:
1. Riding on top of HIGH elephants on a trail up in the mountains that looked WAY DOWN onto a creek...straight down a steep hill.
2. Hiking on a trail that was an intermediate level in difficulty up to the waterfall and the magical garden. Nothing was level at all.
3. Driving on narrow roads that had drop offs and I didn't hyperventilate.
We drove to the top of the mountain and saw a view of all the islands we later fished at.
Did I mention it was very humid and about 100 degrees?
On this tour we also saw a mummified monk...some monk who used to be married with a family and after 50 years became a monk/abbot. Converting to a monk is supposed to be a blessing for your family. He saw a premonition of his own death and somehow the family knew to save his body and not bury him. The only thing I know is that Buddhists believe in reincarnation. You come back to Earth at the next level, higher or lower, based off of your behavior in your previous life. Being mummified is evidently a great direction!
We also went to see the Great Buddha. This shrine is enormous! We thought all temples were ancient, but Rick noticed architectural/structural features that would favor towards the modern. Long story short, this temple was built in 1972~! We bought souvenirs here, too. It seemed almost sacrilegious having souvenir shops intertwined with the temple, but it all flowed together just fine!
Note: regarding the Emirates we toured with: they were quite familiar with the
Note regarding the terrain in the mountain: it's as rich and green as you could imagine. There are very thick vines, heavy foliage, ferns, and huge palm trees/coconut trees. Elephants, monkeys and tigers are regional animals here. Any given day or night you heard mynah birds (which are known for mimicking human voices), monkeys, loud chirps and hoots, etc.
I've never seen such a wide variety of beautiful butterflies, either. Families of butterflies were seen that I had never even visualized in pictures before...all with bold vivid colors. No wonder oriental pictures have butterflies in them!
Flowers abound everywhere...hyacinths even float in the water. Colors, smells sounds...you cannot reproduce this back home.
Tamarind Springs: We were not allowed to bring a camera. All I can say is that neither of us had ever been to a spa like this before, and never will again. It, for a lack of better words, is probably a 5-star spa. The theme is "Heaven on Earth". The spa is literally built into the mountainside, and has natural springs to wade in. The natural springs are said to have healing properties. Your experience starts with an outdoor shower with one of those rain-showerheads. Very awesome! Then you wade in the natural springs, which are built into the boulders, complete with a waterfall you can swim in. The spa is built in, too. Just you and nature. They provided us with sarongs and black, fishnet underwear for the massage. Hmmm.
Once your massage begins, you are escorted to an area up the hill in an entire different region of the resort. It's a hike!
Dinner at Rocky's: The Cabaret show focused on music we grew up with. It's interesting to me that nobody was from the
The fireworks later: we thought some bar was simply trying to get attention and draw attention to themselves. Fireworks are actually a symbol of good luck for the fisherman. While the fishermen are in their boats at sea, they look towards the coastline and see the fireworks shooting off into the sky. The fireworks are supposed to wish good luck on their catch.
Day of Rest: It rained that night during dinner. Again, we did not know that this bad weather was the future cyclone that hit
Line Fishing Day: This was not a typical boat for salt water fishing. It was a traditional cigar shaped boat with an awning. The captain had concocted some long handle attached to the motor to steer.
We met some Chinese tourists who spoke English, and another couple from Hong King who spoke excellent English. We all exchanged email info and look forward to keeping in touch with them.
Snorkeling was different than in
The schools of fish were everywhere! Some fish I recognized: parrot fish, angel and butterfly fish, lion fish, clownfish, damsels, grouper, parrotfish, tangs....absolutely amazing!
Later that night we still had energy and went to the Patio Bar. This night began our Roman Orgy theme which ensued throughout the remainder of the trip. We had wonderful gourmet meals from this day on out.
We arrived early to the restaurant so walked down the road to a little place called "Hip Bar". Finally...English speaking purveyors! The Thai woman who owned the bar, June, and her fiancée were probably in their mid 20's. They love Hip Hop music. She studied hip hop dance for 6 years and wanted to open this bar so others could dance. His sister gave them the $$ to start the place. (Sister was married to an Austrian, they had 2 kids, he died on his birthday in a car wreck and left her lots of money.) June went to
We left and ate at the Patio. It is a part of a beautiful, 5-star resort, and the walk to the restaurant was an experience on its own. It's the kind of resort where if you feel so inclined, you can rent a room with its own swimming pool. We went off of the critic's recommendations: Lobster bisque, mozzarella balls, chicken kebab in red curry sauce, and then a main course of crab stuffed prawn covered in a white wine sauce, shrimp with asparagus and glass noodles with seafood with a side of Thai sauce. Lord, we even had dessert! During the meal, we had the most pleasant Filipino mariachi band trio come sing for us. Before it was all said and done, Rick selected the catchy tune "House of the Rising Sun" for them to sing, (trying to stump the band) and she roped me into singing with them. I sound great with wine! We had a blast! This huge meal was about $100! It would have been a cool $400 here!
Weather was a little overcast...thoughts of Gilligan's
On the boat they gave us complimentary exotic fruits and water. We tried our first Rambutan. It looks like a hairy strawberry! You twist off the skin and a white, plum-like fruit is encased underneath. It's very sweet, and I think it's the fruit used in Thai wine. (Later on we also ate a Dragon Fruit. It is a white fruit with small, edible black seeds. It looks like chocolate chip ice cream...as a fruit! It favors a kiwi but is sweeter.) On the topic of fruit... Rick says he's never had riper bananas in his life, either.
The Cliff: This restaurant was written up in every publication we came across. The chef is from
One big benefit of traveling during off-peak season is that you can virtually walk-in without a wait! We had a patio table as soon as we walked in! Again, we went with the critic's recommendation: appetizer consisted of dumplings stuffed with prawn and topped with lobster/white wine sauce. WOW!!! I had the main dish of Chicken cooked in a Portuguese Piri-Piri sauce. The sauce favors Thai sauce but has some different hotter spices.
Rick had a copper bowl overflowing with mussels drenched in a white wine, almost gravy thickness, sauce. It was pure heaven! All week we had Chilean wines with dinner, and were never disappointed. Rick finally had an opportunity to enjoy some 10 year old port, and I had a Cliffhanger...basically a White Russian with ice cream and chocolate syrup. What a great night. At any given point we had 4 people waiting on us hand and foot!
Last Day: No souvenir shops exist like other tourist places. You actually have to take a tour. We went and Rick bought me a beautiful sapphire/diamond ring in 18kg. I especially like it because they mine sapphires right in
We bought souvenirs... (Ironically no place had t-shirts.) We had a little time to kill before the airport back to
Rick's suitcase was breaking, so he bought a new one. Then we went outside to a local food stand. Again, we didn't go wrong with the food! Rick had his soup and green curry/potato, I had my glass noodles and we had Singhas! Delicious!
For an island with 40,000 occupants, it struck me as odd that this was the only store of its kind in the island! I guess everyone goes to the marketplaces which abound everywhere!
The airport reminded me of the one on the show "
Rick and I flew together for the first time in several years. Nice. Trains, planes and tuk-tuks! We arrived in
The lobby favored an elegant museum! It is located on the
A side note: very trendy room...the TV was a wide screen computer. We need one!
We ate at the hotel's Thai restaurant. You could dine inside in the traditional version, where you take off your shoes and sit at floor level. We opted for the outdoors. It was Friday night and I think a good choice. We saw party boats on the river, all lit up like Christmas trees. The dinner cruisers would float by playing Abba or the Macarena. Quite funny. It reminded us of the Pirate Ship we partied on in
As far as I could tell, we were the only Americans in Koh Samui or
Most tourists were from